I think they deemed the cave a burial ground, capped the entrance with a crap ton of cement and put a memorial in the face of the cement. I don't think anyone has been back in there since.
So true. Stopped going to clubs years ago. My bee keeping actually improved and the state apiarist has a hard time believing my winter survival rates. Some of the stuff they teach at those clubs, in my opinion, I think is actually detrimental.
Yea for the most part honey bees are gentle. You have to know how to handle them. Took me years to learn the art of slow and deliberate. However, in the fall is a different story. Even the gentlest of hive gets a shitty attitude.
*Langstroth only. TBH are difficult to harvest from
*Winter consists of ensuring they have stores. Weak hives get combined and queen nixed. Thorough varroa treatment. Oxalic acid vapor treatment in December. I also use moisture boxes. I do not insulate and I do not close up the screened bottom board. If the bees cant make it through the winter and come out strong. I don't want them.
*I cycle out comb every 3-5 years depending on how it looks. 5 years at the max.
*To manage the population in the hives I do splits and make nuc colonies to sell or to replace hives that I lost. Thankfully, I don't have high % dead outs. I have around 85% of the hives make it through the winter. However this last winter has been a bitch. Been too warm. Lost more hives than normal.
IF you are just starting out. Do not go top bar. Get enough gear for two langstroth hives (Normal bee hives). The reason for this is to compare the hives to each other so you know what normal and healthy looks like.
*Your hives should be 2x deep hive boxes, screened bottom board that stays open year round. Telescoping top cover lid. Use black plastic waxed-rite foundation in the hive boxes (Easier to see eggs and larva).
*Do not attempt to go natural comb for a few years or you will have a mess of tangled comb and put more work into it than you want to.
*Do not take honey from the hives the first year, your bees need it more than you do for the winter.
*Do not fuck around with varroa mites. Control them effectively. Do not try to go fully natural treatment. I have come to the conclusion that most beekeepers who claim they are doing full natural varroa control are either lying about their success or put way too much time into their hives and have only a couple hives. There are organic treatment methods that are very effective. If you have a hive that has out of control varroa it doesn't just impact you. When that hive crashes the bees abscond and bring those mites to other bee keepers hives.
*Take your time, learn what healthy brood looks like, what eggs look like, what healthy brood patterns look like
*Keeping hives from swarming is a giant pain in the ass and can be hit or miss. Living by the "Inspection every two weeks" method doesn't work for swarm prevention. During the spring flow and build up I'm checking my hives for population crowding and queen cells every 4 days.
*Queens are not sacred. I will nix a queen in a heart beat if her genetics are undesirable. I have no time for hot hives and lack luster winter stores build up.
*The top 3 reasons bees die in the winter. Not enough stores, Varroa wasn't under control, too much moisture in the hive. Don't fall victim to the people telling you to close up and insulate your hives. These bees can take some seriously cold temps. Just control the moisture in the hive and they will be fine.
* Jan - Feb = hive starvation time. Don't be afraid to check your hives during the winter for honey stores. I generally just heft the hives and put on fondant if they need it. I spend less than 1 min in each hive during the cold months.
* I dislike bee clubs. Maybe it just my area. I can't stand the elitist attitudes and the general hen pecking. Bunch of men that have the disposition to act like raging faggots at times.
If you want some more advice or where to start ill be more than glad to help. However, your first two years is going to be busy. You can't fire and forget. You need to take the time to learn.
You aren't looking in the right places and no I'm not going to tell you what Industry I currently work in. There are only maybe 5 shops in the USA that specialize in the kind of work we do. That's why we get paid so much and I'm not down to Doxx my self.
We do not require any training. We just attract people who went to school for some of the equipment we use. It's seen as romantic and as a "Cool" job.
No certifications needed. Most of the "dumb kids" We attract actually have college degrees. A good portion of them have formal training that pertains to some of the robotics systems they will be working with. Just no formal training within the industry.
It isn't like we don't pay them for their worth. Most of them start between 70 and 80k a year. Within 5 years if they stick with it they can easily be making 120k and it keeps going up from there the longer you stay with it and the more specialized you get.
Im around your age so I'm no boomer. So that shit isn't going to work on me.
I have no college experience and I work in a field that is fully trade based. I work in an area in that field that is highly tech driven. Working with robotics technology of all different types. We hire mainly younger people because it's easier to train them and we don't have to deal with bad habits that can cause major money loss to a customer.
It is common for us to hire 7 people and 4 to 5 of them end up being worthless.
They don't want to work or put the time in to scale. They don't want to work in the elements. They don't want to put in the extra effort to make it work. Yet they want the raises, they want an easy ride.
They make comments like "How are you able to own a truck like that" then get upset when I remind them I have been in the industry for a decade and paid my dues.
They don't understand the gold mine they have at their finger tips and how incredibly lucky they are to have been given a job in this section of the industry which has the potential to set them up for life.
The younger generations have absolutley been failed by their parents.
There is plenty of really well paying jobs out there. The bigger question is. How much are you willing to push your self to get to that level.
Why do you keep the company of weak people. If they were willing to cave to a simple vaccine to stay comfortable. Can you imagine what they would allow if things were way worse.
I saw this as well. The image is a little deceiving.
He looked uncomfortable when being greeted by that thing. It honestly reminded me of how the people in the capital dressed and acted in the hunger games movie. Fucking embrassing.
I think you might have been looking at the wrong LED's. There are several different types of Cree's within the same familiy line. The XLamp series are the expensive ones. I'm using 96 of the JR5050 series which are also very bright. They should be no more than .72 USD per LED. if you buy them in bulk they should get down to .60 USD
The Cree XLamp XP series is sparingly used in the LED arrays. For example if I were to add them to m y current build. I would probably only use 4 to 6 XP leds with the rest being the JR5050's
Very cool to see someone messing with high powered LED's. I hope these LED's bring enjoyment and massive yields your way.
If anything, I wish to impart some knowledge to you, in hopes it may help you. The biggest thing you need to be aware of, is to take the stated wattage output and Luminous Flux of Amazon LED's with a grain of salt. They are usually of poor quality and do not output enough light in the PAR spectrum that plants need. These LED's are also horribly inefficient. Most of the power used is turned into heat. These LED's can also damage your eyes.
If your willing to watch a 5 min video on how to reflow solder using an electric griddle. I highly recommend you invest into Cree JR5050 K class or Cree XP horticultural LED's. These LED's come in full spectrum white, blue and red. They have been designed specifically for growing plants. These 5 watt LED's put out more light at a given Voltage and Amperage than that Amazon 50 Watt at the same voltage and amperage.
For example. You stated the LED you are using, its Luminous Flux is 80 Lumens per watt. The Cree JR5050 output approx. 200 Lumens per watt.
Cree LED's are also very efficient at turning electric into light. Cree is considered one of the top LED brands. You can also look into OSRAM OLSON LED's, they also have a horticultural line.
Here is the Cree Horticultural LED Line up. You can find these LED's at places like Mouser.com or DigiKey.com
Most high powered LED's are hard to find pre-soldered on to DIY boards. It's possible but they are rare and expensive. One way to make them work is to order star boards for each LED then solder on the LED and power leads to each board in series or parallel.
When it comes to LED drivers invest into good drivers that will last you years. They aren't expensive. Meanwell LED drives are considered one of the best in the world. I use these drivers for everything LED related. I specifically use their harsh environment HLG series with an A rating (All the A means is that the constant current and constant Amperage settings can be adjusted). I use the HLG-240H-30A and the HLG-320H-30A drivers to power grow lights.
Here is the spec sheet for the 240 Watt meanwell driver:
A good housing for these LED's is made by a company called MakersLED. I use their slim line housings on every grow light that I build. The only difference is that I do not use starboards for my LED's. I design my own circuit boards and have them printed on a thick aluminum base.
I'm currently working on a project to replace my 600 Watt Metal Halide with a DIY LED lamp that will output more light and can be dimmed. I start a crap ton of seedlings in the spring for the garden and this monstrosity of a power hog needs to go. Everything listed above is what I'm using in my build. It isn't horribly expensive, I think I will be around $250 to $300 USD all said and done. Which is substantially less expensive if I were to outright buy a high quality LED grow light with similar components at the same power.
Here is one of the LED circuit boards that I'm currently Designing. I still have a little ways to go. It should output between 46,000 and 50,000 lumens.
If you decide to venture further into this and need help sourcing things, let me know. I'll be more than glad to help. If you need custom circuit boards designed. Ill do it for free. I can also recommend some PCB manufactures, either in china or the USA to have these circuit boards printed.
Just for fun. Cree LED makes some of the world brights LED's. One of my favorites is the XHP35 HI. Its a 13 Watt LED that can be over driven to 50 Watts. There is a flashlight that uses one of these LED's to its full potential that can light up a tower at over a half mile away and a hotel at over a mile away. That's one Cree LED. Cree makes stupid bright LED's
Here is the video of this guy playing with this flashlight. Sorry for the Youtube link.
https://youtu.be/LStmsIyGldA
You are extremely talented at engineering. You obviously know what you're doing. It's obvious in how you welded and assembled your light fixture.
I wanted to do some math for you to illustrate you can do way better. You are running your LED's on 120V AC at .41 amps which equals 49.2 watts per LED. Just for the sake of it, we will say there is no loss when converting from AC to DC in those LED's. The Luminous Flux of your LED's is 80 Lumens per watt. That would mean each LED is putting out 3,936 lumens. Add the lumens across 16 LED's. That would give you 62,976 total lumens and consuming 787.2 watts. That efficiency is about as good as the 600 watt metal halide I'm trying to replace. The build that I'm doing, using good LED's is going to peak at around 55,000 lumens in a 16 inch housing footprint and consuming 230 watts of electric. I'm running the LED's at less than half their power. If I were to power them fully at 5 watts per LED. That light will output 96,000 lumens while consuming 480 watts of power. I can still go even higher. Their max rating is 7.2 watts which would output 138,240 lumens while consuming 691.2 watts of power.
With your skill set, you deserve to use better LED's and the money you will save in not having to build a massive housing and cooling rig will pay for its self easily.
Its the wind causing the phases (conductors) to sway into each other. When they slap together you can get arcing which causes power surges. These are momentary faults that clear them selves. The reclosers are designed when a fault is detected they will pulse the power a few times to try to clear the fault. If the fault isn't cleared. It shuts the power off. Slapping, sometimes isn't caught by the reclosers or other fault sensing equipment which can cause other components to fail down the line.
Here is a good example of slapping on transmission and distribution powerlines. Sorry for the youtube and Facebook links. Good videos none the less
Its the slapping of the phases that cause the surges that blow the transformers.
Plus a mixture of other crap as well. Like water ingress into components. Usually these types of failures happen before the reclosers or other auto-sectionalizers catch the fault and shut the line off.
#1 Guy admits to fighting and refuses to be detained.
#2 Guy refuses to listen to several commands.
#3 Guy gets tazed. No effect. Possible substance issue.
#4 Guy walks towards cop and reaches for him.
#4 Cop shoots him.
However, the cop could have been way more tactful and done more to de-escalate. I get it though. Somewhat chaotic scene that he was trying to get control of and the suspect got out of hand in the process.
Noctis_Labyrinthus 1 point 5 months ago
I think they deemed the cave a burial ground, capped the entrance with a crap ton of cement and put a memorial in the face of the cement. I don't think anyone has been back in there since.
/v/videos viewpost?postid=65621bb32f5a1
Noctis_Labyrinthus 0 points 5 months ago
If you think those are bad. You should see the stories about the cave diving ones. No thank you. Ya'll can keep your hobby.
/v/videos viewpost?postid=65621bb32f5a1
Noctis_Labyrinthus 1 point 1 year ago
There was no white kid on that Bus. Suitland park and all around southern DC is all blacks.
Just looked at the images PG County PD released. The lone kid was black.
/v/random viewpost?postid=64592d4b61501
Noctis_Labyrinthus 1 point 1.2 years ago
So true. Stopped going to clubs years ago. My bee keeping actually improved and the state apiarist has a hard time believing my winter survival rates. Some of the stuff they teach at those clubs, in my opinion, I think is actually detrimental.
/v/AskVoat viewpost?postid=640f0e911f54e
Noctis_Labyrinthus 0 points 1.2 years ago
Yea for the most part honey bees are gentle. You have to know how to handle them. Took me years to learn the art of slow and deliberate. However, in the fall is a different story. Even the gentlest of hive gets a shitty attitude.
/v/AskVoat viewpost?postid=640f0e911f54e
Noctis_Labyrinthus 0 points 1.2 years ago
*Langstroth only. TBH are difficult to harvest from
*Winter consists of ensuring they have stores. Weak hives get combined and queen nixed. Thorough varroa treatment. Oxalic acid vapor treatment in December. I also use moisture boxes. I do not insulate and I do not close up the screened bottom board. If the bees cant make it through the winter and come out strong. I don't want them.
*I cycle out comb every 3-5 years depending on how it looks. 5 years at the max.
*To manage the population in the hives I do splits and make nuc colonies to sell or to replace hives that I lost. Thankfully, I don't have high % dead outs. I have around 85% of the hives make it through the winter. However this last winter has been a bitch. Been too warm. Lost more hives than normal.
/v/AskVoat viewpost?postid=640f0e911f54e
Noctis_Labyrinthus 4 points 1.2 years ago
IF you are just starting out. Do not go top bar. Get enough gear for two langstroth hives (Normal bee hives). The reason for this is to compare the hives to each other so you know what normal and healthy looks like.
*Your hives should be 2x deep hive boxes, screened bottom board that stays open year round. Telescoping top cover lid. Use black plastic waxed-rite foundation in the hive boxes (Easier to see eggs and larva).
*Do not attempt to go natural comb for a few years or you will have a mess of tangled comb and put more work into it than you want to.
*Do not take honey from the hives the first year, your bees need it more than you do for the winter.
*Do not fuck around with varroa mites. Control them effectively. Do not try to go fully natural treatment. I have come to the conclusion that most beekeepers who claim they are doing full natural varroa control are either lying about their success or put way too much time into their hives and have only a couple hives. There are organic treatment methods that are very effective. If you have a hive that has out of control varroa it doesn't just impact you. When that hive crashes the bees abscond and bring those mites to other bee keepers hives.
*Take your time, learn what healthy brood looks like, what eggs look like, what healthy brood patterns look like
*Keeping hives from swarming is a giant pain in the ass and can be hit or miss. Living by the "Inspection every two weeks" method doesn't work for swarm prevention. During the spring flow and build up I'm checking my hives for population crowding and queen cells every 4 days.
*Queens are not sacred. I will nix a queen in a heart beat if her genetics are undesirable. I have no time for hot hives and lack luster winter stores build up.
*The top 3 reasons bees die in the winter. Not enough stores, Varroa wasn't under control, too much moisture in the hive. Don't fall victim to the people telling you to close up and insulate your hives. These bees can take some seriously cold temps. Just control the moisture in the hive and they will be fine.
* Jan - Feb = hive starvation time. Don't be afraid to check your hives during the winter for honey stores. I generally just heft the hives and put on fondant if they need it. I spend less than 1 min in each hive during the cold months.
* I dislike bee clubs. Maybe it just my area. I can't stand the elitist attitudes and the general hen pecking. Bunch of men that have the disposition to act like raging faggots at times.
If you want some more advice or where to start ill be more than glad to help. However, your first two years is going to be busy. You can't fire and forget. You need to take the time to learn.
/v/AskVoat viewpost?postid=640f0e911f54e
Noctis_Labyrinthus 0 points 1.2 years ago
Yes. I have been keeping bees for the last decade. I tend to 20 hives on my property.
/v/AskVoat viewpost?postid=640f0e911f54e
Noctis_Labyrinthus 0 points 1.3 years ago
You aren't looking in the right places and no I'm not going to tell you what Industry I currently work in. There are only maybe 5 shops in the USA that specialize in the kind of work we do. That's why we get paid so much and I'm not down to Doxx my self.
We do not require any training. We just attract people who went to school for some of the equipment we use. It's seen as romantic and as a "Cool" job.
By the way. I'm set to retire by 48.
/v/TellVoat viewpost?postid=63daf443cba34
Noctis_Labyrinthus 1 point 1.3 years ago
No certifications needed. Most of the "dumb kids" We attract actually have college degrees. A good portion of them have formal training that pertains to some of the robotics systems they will be working with. Just no formal training within the industry.
It isn't like we don't pay them for their worth. Most of them start between 70 and 80k a year. Within 5 years if they stick with it they can easily be making 120k and it keeps going up from there the longer you stay with it and the more specialized you get.
/v/TellVoat viewpost?postid=63daf443cba34
Noctis_Labyrinthus 2 points 1.3 years ago*
Im around your age so I'm no boomer. So that shit isn't going to work on me.
I have no college experience and I work in a field that is fully trade based. I work in an area in that field that is highly tech driven. Working with robotics technology of all different types. We hire mainly younger people because it's easier to train them and we don't have to deal with bad habits that can cause major money loss to a customer.
It is common for us to hire 7 people and 4 to 5 of them end up being worthless.
They don't want to work or put the time in to scale. They don't want to work in the elements. They don't want to put in the extra effort to make it work. Yet they want the raises, they want an easy ride.
They make comments like "How are you able to own a truck like that" then get upset when I remind them I have been in the industry for a decade and paid my dues.
They don't understand the gold mine they have at their finger tips and how incredibly lucky they are to have been given a job in this section of the industry which has the potential to set them up for life.
The younger generations have absolutley been failed by their parents.
There is plenty of really well paying jobs out there. The bigger question is. How much are you willing to push your self to get to that level.
/v/TellVoat viewpost?postid=63daf443cba34
Noctis_Labyrinthus 2 points 1.3 years ago
They.. had.. a.. choice..
Why do you keep the company of weak people. If they were willing to cave to a simple vaccine to stay comfortable. Can you imagine what they would allow if things were way worse.
/v/whatever viewpost?postid=63c031cf0d39b
Noctis_Labyrinthus 2 points 1.4 years ago
Electric Motors take a special type of oil.
I would look up the model of the motor and try to find the manufacturer specs and see if they recommend oil type.
/v/DIY viewpost?postid=63aee52ad04ee
Noctis_Labyrinthus 1 point 1.4 years ago
I saw this as well. The image is a little deceiving.
He looked uncomfortable when being greeted by that thing. It honestly reminded me of how the people in the capital dressed and acted in the hunger games movie. Fucking embrassing.
/v/whatever viewpost?postid=63a71ba1de6ba
Noctis_Labyrinthus 5 points 1.5 years ago
I have always liked this.
/v/PoetryForBrokenHearts viewpost?postid=636d8a92ba606
Noctis_Labyrinthus 1 point 1.5 years ago
Will do, for sure. In the AM
/v/AskVoat viewpost?postid=636c52692e214
Noctis_Labyrinthus 6 points 1.5 years ago
Found it
https://files.catbox.moe/302kyq.jpg
/v/AskVoat viewpost?postid=636c52692e214
Noctis_Labyrinthus 1 point 1.5 years ago
lol. I fat fingered the title.
/v/AskVoat viewpost?postid=636c52692e214
Noctis_Labyrinthus 0 points 1.5 years ago
I already looked on SV. Didn't find it
/v/AskVoat viewpost?postid=636c52692e214
Noctis_Labyrinthus 0 points 1.6 years ago*
I think you might have been looking at the wrong LED's. There are several different types of Cree's within the same familiy line. The XLamp series are the expensive ones. I'm using 96 of the JR5050 series which are also very bright. They should be no more than .72 USD per LED. if you buy them in bulk they should get down to .60 USD
The Cree XLamp XP series is sparingly used in the LED arrays. For example if I were to add them to m y current build. I would probably only use 4 to 6 XP leds with the rest being the JR5050's
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cree-LED/JR5050BWT-K-U40EK0000-N0000001?qs=QNEnbhJQKvbAuvkGkgMwZA%3D%3D
Don't let the price scare you off.. You really are getting a superior LED that is worth the money in light output but also guaranteed run time.
/v/Gardening viewpost?postid=633adae047ea0
Noctis_Labyrinthus 2 points 1.6 years ago*
Very cool to see someone messing with high powered LED's. I hope these LED's bring enjoyment and massive yields your way.
If anything, I wish to impart some knowledge to you, in hopes it may help you. The biggest thing you need to be aware of, is to take the stated wattage output and Luminous Flux of Amazon LED's with a grain of salt. They are usually of poor quality and do not output enough light in the PAR spectrum that plants need. These LED's are also horribly inefficient. Most of the power used is turned into heat. These LED's can also damage your eyes.
If your willing to watch a 5 min video on how to reflow solder using an electric griddle. I highly recommend you invest into Cree JR5050 K class or Cree XP horticultural LED's. These LED's come in full spectrum white, blue and red. They have been designed specifically for growing plants. These 5 watt LED's put out more light at a given Voltage and Amperage than that Amazon 50 Watt at the same voltage and amperage.
For example. You stated the LED you are using, its Luminous Flux is 80 Lumens per watt. The Cree JR5050 output approx. 200 Lumens per watt.
Cree LED's are also very efficient at turning electric into light. Cree is considered one of the top LED brands. You can also look into OSRAM OLSON LED's, they also have a horticultural line.
Here is the Cree Horticultural LED Line up. You can find these LED's at places like Mouser.com or DigiKey.com
https://cree-led.com/products/applications/horticulture/
https://assets.cree-led.com/a/fs/Cree-LED-Horticulture-Feature-Sheet.pdf
Most high powered LED's are hard to find pre-soldered on to DIY boards. It's possible but they are rare and expensive. One way to make them work is to order star boards for each LED then solder on the LED and power leads to each board in series or parallel.
When it comes to LED drivers invest into good drivers that will last you years. They aren't expensive. Meanwell LED drives are considered one of the best in the world. I use these drivers for everything LED related. I specifically use their harsh environment HLG series with an A rating (All the A means is that the constant current and constant Amperage settings can be adjusted). I use the HLG-240H-30A and the HLG-320H-30A drivers to power grow lights.
Here is the spec sheet for the 240 Watt meanwell driver:
https://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=HLG-240H
A good housing for these LED's is made by a company called MakersLED. I use their slim line housings on every grow light that I build. The only difference is that I do not use starboards for my LED's. I design my own circuit boards and have them printed on a thick aluminum base.
http://www.makersled.com/products/makers-slim-heatsink/
You can easily find very quiet high output 120mm PC fans. Cooler Guys is the brand that I use.
https://www.coolerguys.com/collections/dc-12-volt-fans
I'm currently working on a project to replace my 600 Watt Metal Halide with a DIY LED lamp that will output more light and can be dimmed. I start a crap ton of seedlings in the spring for the garden and this monstrosity of a power hog needs to go. Everything listed above is what I'm using in my build. It isn't horribly expensive, I think I will be around $250 to $300 USD all said and done. Which is substantially less expensive if I were to outright buy a high quality LED grow light with similar components at the same power.
Here is one of the LED circuit boards that I'm currently Designing. I still have a little ways to go. It should output between 46,000 and 50,000 lumens.
https://files.catbox.moe/mhetdw.JPG
https://files.catbox.moe/qm772u.JPG
https://files.catbox.moe/z3i2fe.JPG
If you decide to venture further into this and need help sourcing things, let me know. I'll be more than glad to help. If you need custom circuit boards designed. Ill do it for free. I can also recommend some PCB manufactures, either in china or the USA to have these circuit boards printed.
Just for fun. Cree LED makes some of the world brights LED's. One of my favorites is the XHP35 HI. Its a 13 Watt LED that can be over driven to 50 Watts. There is a flashlight that uses one of these LED's to its full potential that can light up a tower at over a half mile away and a hotel at over a mile away. That's one Cree LED. Cree makes stupid bright LED's
Here is the video of this guy playing with this flashlight. Sorry for the Youtube link.
https://youtu.be/LStmsIyGldA
You are extremely talented at engineering. You obviously know what you're doing. It's obvious in how you welded and assembled your light fixture.
I wanted to do some math for you to illustrate you can do way better. You are running your LED's on 120V AC at .41 amps which equals 49.2 watts per LED. Just for the sake of it, we will say there is no loss when converting from AC to DC in those LED's. The Luminous Flux of your LED's is 80 Lumens per watt. That would mean each LED is putting out 3,936 lumens. Add the lumens across 16 LED's. That would give you 62,976 total lumens and consuming 787.2 watts. That efficiency is about as good as the 600 watt metal halide I'm trying to replace. The build that I'm doing, using good LED's is going to peak at around 55,000 lumens in a 16 inch housing footprint and consuming 230 watts of electric. I'm running the LED's at less than half their power. If I were to power them fully at 5 watts per LED. That light will output 96,000 lumens while consuming 480 watts of power. I can still go even higher. Their max rating is 7.2 watts which would output 138,240 lumens while consuming 691.2 watts of power.
With your skill set, you deserve to use better LED's and the money you will save in not having to build a massive housing and cooling rig will pay for its self easily.
/v/Gardening viewpost?postid=633adae047ea0
Noctis_Labyrinthus 0 points 1.6 years ago
Its the wind causing the phases (conductors) to sway into each other. When they slap together you can get arcing which causes power surges. These are momentary faults that clear them selves. The reclosers are designed when a fault is detected they will pulse the power a few times to try to clear the fault. If the fault isn't cleared. It shuts the power off. Slapping, sometimes isn't caught by the reclosers or other fault sensing equipment which can cause other components to fail down the line.
Here is a good example of slapping on transmission and distribution powerlines. Sorry for the youtube and Facebook links. Good videos none the less
https://youtu.be/_dPLYAOTXwI
https://youtu.be/TY5MC4HkPnA
https://fb.watch/fQPY-rWOBZ/
/v/whatever viewpost?postid=633491541a686
Noctis_Labyrinthus 1 point 1.6 years ago
Its the slapping of the phases that cause the surges that blow the transformers.
Plus a mixture of other crap as well. Like water ingress into components. Usually these types of failures happen before the reclosers or other auto-sectionalizers catch the fault and shut the line off.
/v/whatever viewpost?postid=633491541a686
Noctis_Labyrinthus 9 points 1.6 years ago
That was justified.
#1 Guy admits to fighting and refuses to be detained.
#2 Guy refuses to listen to several commands.
#3 Guy gets tazed. No effect. Possible substance issue.
#4 Guy walks towards cop and reaches for him.
#4 Cop shoots him.
However, the cop could have been way more tactful and done more to de-escalate. I get it though. Somewhat chaotic scene that he was trying to get control of and the suspect got out of hand in the process.
/v/Niggers viewpost?postid=6334da7803cfb
Noctis_Labyrinthus 3 points 1.7 years ago
"jewish tropes like female special forces soldiers and nigger nuclear scientists."
lol
/v/WhiteBeauty viewpost?postid=632ca1503550a