I have wood countertops that came from a former BBQ joint. Its all coated in what I believe is danish oil or another "food safe" oil to treat the wood.
My goal is to clean it, stain it black, then add likely around five coats of poly, since it will be in a commercial setting.
Should mineral spirits be the first step, removing whatever buildup is on the wood, or just go ahead and sand?
Am I wasting my time if I'm planning to use an oil-based stain, as in: just clean, dry, then stain?
If you're staining it black then color shift shouldn't be a problem just be consistent in application and know what your end goal looks like so that you apply enough coats of stain to get it.
Sand it smooth then stain.
For the finish, if it is going to be subject to impact or used as a work surface, consider resin rather than urethane since urathane is a thin coat.
I did see the pouring "Glaze Coat" options as well. Read their instructions and any oil based stain will need at least two coats of poly before applying.
Minwax had some spar urethane that was awesome for daily use. Shame they stopped making it in 2019.
So long as the stain is dry you won't have a problem pouring epoxy straight over it.
One trick w epoxy is if you have bubbles rise to surface, you can take a lighter (preferably torch style) and heat that area up when it's still liquidy, removes the bubbles. Take your time as you survey the table. Some bubbles will be missed but it will look glorious anyway. Only downside with epoxy is the price. Do the sq foot math.
I have a small bit to test with. Knowing that it does soak in, would applying stain on top stick, or just wipe off?
Also uncertain what was applied the first time, so is there issues with mixing oil types? I think its danish oil, but could be linseed or tung oil too.
[ - ] bobdole9 [op] 1 point 5 hoursJun 9, 2025 19:11:05 ago (+1/-0)
Fortunately the people applying the finish only did it on one face. I'm not looking to keep the oil look, might crack out the table saw and trim off the finised edges, then sand the former underside.
A different oil or penetrating stain should be fine, but a surface finish like paint or varnish may not adhere properly. The stain may be blotchy because some areas may have absorbed more or less of the original finish.
Sanding would do it. Heavy grit then finer and then finer. Even if it's not 100% uniformly perfectly removed, black stain is pretty forgiving and could make for some neat and forgiving detail. Get a sander or 2; meaning don't try to muscle it.
I'm a fan of epoxy instead of poly. , because of hard foreverness factor of it but watch some videos on techniques. Managing dripping is most annoying part.
[ + ] SundayMatinee
[ - ] SundayMatinee 1 point 8 hoursJun 9, 2025 16:40:28 ago (+1/-0)
Sand it smooth then stain.
For the finish, if it is going to be subject to impact or used as a work surface, consider resin rather than urethane since urathane is a thin coat.
[ + ] bobdole9
[ - ] bobdole9 [op] 0 points 7 hoursJun 9, 2025 17:12:04 ago (+0/-0)
I did see the pouring "Glaze Coat" options as well. Read their instructions and any oil based stain will need at least two coats of poly before applying.
Minwax had some spar urethane that was awesome for daily use. Shame they stopped making it in 2019.
[ + ] observation1
[ - ] observation1 0 points 7 hoursJun 9, 2025 17:26:22 ago (+0/-0)
One trick w epoxy is if you have bubbles rise to surface, you can take a lighter (preferably torch style) and heat that area up when it's still liquidy, removes the bubbles. Take your time as you survey the table. Some bubbles will be missed but it will look glorious anyway. Only downside with epoxy is the price. Do the sq foot math.
[ + ] BoozyB
[ - ] BoozyB 1 point 8 hoursJun 9, 2025 16:21:11 ago (+1/-0)
The oil not just a surface coat, it has soaked in and would be difficult or impossible to completely remove.
[ + ] bobdole9
[ - ] bobdole9 [op] 0 points 8 hoursJun 9, 2025 16:26:37 ago (+0/-0)
Also uncertain what was applied the first time, so is there issues with mixing oil types? I think its danish oil, but could be linseed or tung oil too.
[ + ] registereduser
[ - ] registereduser 0 points 5 hoursJun 9, 2025 19:01:31 ago (+0/-0)
No, but there is with completely different finishes.
[ + ] bobdole9
[ - ] bobdole9 [op] 1 point 5 hoursJun 9, 2025 19:11:05 ago (+1/-0)
[ + ] BoozyB
[ - ] BoozyB 0 points 4 hoursJun 9, 2025 20:29:41 ago (+0/-0)
The stain may be blotchy because some areas may have absorbed more or less of the original finish.
[ + ] lord_nougat
[ - ] lord_nougat 1 point 8 hoursJun 9, 2025 16:04:07 ago (+1/-0)
[ + ] MaryXmas
[ - ] MaryXmas 0 points 5 hoursJun 9, 2025 19:06:35 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] observation1
[ - ] observation1 0 points 7 hoursJun 9, 2025 16:58:51 ago (+0/-0)*
I'm a fan of epoxy instead of poly.
, because of hard foreverness factor of it but watch some videos on techniques. Managing dripping is most annoying part.
[ + ] registereduser
[ - ] registereduser 0 points 8 hoursJun 9, 2025 16:09:48 ago (+1/-1)
Poly sucks ass anyway. Just clean it, freshen up oil coat and wax it.
[ + ] lord_nougat
[ - ] lord_nougat 0 points 7 hoursJun 9, 2025 17:48:51 ago (+0/-0)
But poly is okay indoors. I think. Sure is useless on deck...