It is all about anodic and cathodic properties of metal. Most likely the coupler is brass, which will offer protection to anodic metals, but you wouldn't be able to use it with, say gold or some more exotics.
The copper pipe squeezes into an o-ring inside the fitting. It's not really metal on metal. Copper pipe gets connected to brass fittings all the time. I'm not confident enough with every rare use to comment on steel etc, but I've never seen it.
Not all of those products are of the same quality, but that isn't plastic so it gets the benefit of the doubt. Service plumbers use them all the time. The same plumbers will tell you not to. It will last a long long time where you have it in the wall.
No, the company I worked for this was completely not acceptable.
Now, in reality, if it doesn't leak it's perfect, for a while.
The issue the bosses had is this is 3-5 year fix in their minds. The old heads have the thought process they never want to go back to a job for the rest of their life.
The way I would have fixed this for them would be to use the correct pex insert that adapts to copper. If it made sense, and most of the time it would, we would put a valve there. So you'd sweat the valve or the adapter to the copper, then crimp to the pex.
Thanks for the input. I’ll probably use the male sweat adapter later in the summer, but my pipe soldering skills leave a lot to be desired so we’ll see….
It's easier than you think. Get a good torch something like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-Max-Performance-Plumber-s-Torch-Kit-with-14-1-oz-Map-Pro-Cylinder-and-Torch-6-pieces-PK8000KC/206268097, make sure the pipe is stripped with sand paper and cleaned, as well as the inside of the adapter. Cover it all in flux, both the pipe end and the adapter. Slide the adapter on with the flux, put your torch to it until that flux begins to boil. Then take you solder and run it around the top while continuing to torch. If the pipe and adapter surfaces are cleaned and fluxed the solder will flow into it automatically. Let it cool and then crimp your pex on with a collar.
My entire water system is PEX and Shark Bite fittings. My neighbor has the same stuff and his system is about 5 years older than mine. I've never seen the fittings fail other than the plastic connectors can get rotted and break if they are exposed to the elements, mostly UV light. Keep in mind we also live off grid and all our water lines are external to our buildings, so little risk of water damage due to failure.
oh yes. They are worth their weight in gold. I converted a lot of my stuff several years ago and used these shark bits. One of the best inventions of all time. I don't like that your going from copper to pVC though. There's a better way to do this particular.
I've never seen that particular type of fitting before but I'm curious as to the practicality...I've got some plumbing upgrades to do and I'm going to check this out
[ + ] Drstrangestgov
[ - ] Drstrangestgov 2 points 1 dayApr 28, 2025 21:59:31 ago (+2/-0)
[ + ] FacelessOne
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[ + ] xmasskull
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[ + ] KosherHiveKicker
[ - ] KosherHiveKicker 2 points 1 dayApr 28, 2025 19:14:50 ago (+3/-1)
Copper touching steel/iron/aluminium will corrode over time. I am not sure about brass fittings though.
[ + ] HelenHighwater
[ - ] HelenHighwater 1 point 1 dayApr 28, 2025 19:22:57 ago (+1/-0)
t. took a metallurgy class. Only female in it.
[ + ] AugustineOfHippo2
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[ + ] Whatthefuck
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[ + ] ruck_feddit
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[ + ] KosherHiveKicker
[ - ] KosherHiveKicker 0 points 1 dayApr 28, 2025 21:54:29 ago (+0/-0)
Just to be safe, I wouldn't enclose a fitting like that inside finished drywall until you know for sure it doesn't cause corrosion.
[ + ] ruck_feddit
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[ + ] AugustineOfHippo2
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Thanks.
[ + ] registered_bot
[ - ] registered_bot 1 point 1 dayApr 28, 2025 20:05:10 ago (+1/-0)*
Now, in reality, if it doesn't leak it's perfect, for a while.
The issue the bosses had is this is 3-5 year fix in their minds. The old heads have the thought process they never want to go back to a job for the rest of their life.
The way I would have fixed this for them would be to use the correct pex insert that adapts to copper. If it made sense, and most of the time it would, we would put a valve there. So you'd sweat the valve or the adapter to the copper, then crimp to the pex.
https://www.pexuniverse.com/pex-copper-pipe-adapters
https://www.pexuniverse.com/3-4-pex-sweat-brass-ball-valve
I can't tell if that's 1/2 or 3/4 from the pics, but thats how you would "correctly" fix that as a high level plumber.
[ + ] AugustineOfHippo2
[ - ] AugustineOfHippo2 [op] 1 point 1 dayApr 28, 2025 21:22:10 ago (+1/-0)
[ + ] registered_bot
[ - ] registered_bot 0 points 1 dayApr 28, 2025 23:44:56 ago (+0/-0)*
[ + ] ItsOk2bArian
[ - ] ItsOk2bArian 0 points 22 hoursApr 29, 2025 07:14:15 ago (+0/-0)
Keep in mind we also live off grid and all our water lines are external to our buildings, so little risk of water damage due to failure.
[ + ] HonkyMcNiggerSpic
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[ + ] BoozyB
[ - ] BoozyB 0 points 1 dayApr 28, 2025 19:44:04 ago (+0/-0)
Brass is a copper-zinc alloy.
[ + ] Zyklonbeekeeper
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[ + ] AugustineOfHippo2
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[ + ] Zyklonbeekeeper
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[ + ] AugustineOfHippo2
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