Off course it's when I am working on a rush job. Why else would I be working on a Sunday. I was making a light facing cut, when mid cut the pitch of the motor changed. I just had another inch to go so i let it run. After the cut, i noticed smoke coming out from the motor. Casing temperature was 65 degrees C. According to the tag, running temp should be 45 C. I have been shopping around for a bigger lathe. Something used, American or European made. Bugs me that i am going to have to invest around $600 on this old one first, that money should have been going towards the new lathe.
That stuff doesn't work. You need new nigger wires. The old ones just piss and moan, the new ones can be beaten into place. Or you can pick your own damn cotton.
The armature prolly just burned up a bit. Its windings are made of magnetic wire. you might be able to fix it with some shelack.
You might get lucky, if you pull the armature out. If it looks "not too bad" you can blow it off with air until its clean. maybe soap n water if it's real dirty ( gotta make sure it dries fully before next step).
after its clean, just warm it up, just a bit in a oven. just warm it up a bit, like warming up a pair of good leather boots before snow sealing them with bee's wax er someshit, but with this you need to pull it out of the oven (with proper gloves) and paint the armature "copper windings" with shellack. yes good ole shellack from the hardware store. shellack is crushed bugs and it can be thinned out with denatured alcohol. sometimes if the shellack is too thick you gotta thin it out a bit. maybe even filter it if its old n nasty.
i have personally done this when i burned up a worm-drive circular saw. this crazy old timer told me to give it a shot. it werked like a charm.
At the start, the broken saw would just make a loud growling noise, with no spin. The blade would not rotate, when the on button was pressed. just a loud WWWHHHHAAAAHHH!!!!WWWWWHHHHAAAAHHH!!!! totally busted.
after two separate coats it was working fine for me, cutting like a champ.
ok heres how the coats go. first coat goes on like i said earlier, immediately after the warming the armature up, then after it cools, coat it one more time, for good measure. let it dry. once it's dry. install the armature back in the saw and it's should be good to go.
one more thing; i never coated the housing coils. i just coated the armature windings.
oh and dont get and shellac on the commutator. tape it off er somthin.
good luck. be careful. make sure the motor is unplugged. have fun, be safe.
live long and prosper. nanu nanu shazbat
legal disclaimer: i am not giving you any advice, just telling you what i did. research it for your self if you do not feel comfortable doing anything.
ps. an armature is also called a rotor winding. and the outer part that doesn't spin is called the stator winding.
i do NOT remember coating the stator winding. i only coated the Rotor winding because the rotor has the harder time dissipating heat. the stator runs cooler as it is larger and cools easier from the aluminum casing acting as a heat sink. the inner rotors are what usually burn up, and short out first.
It's not much in the context i often spend a thousand dollars just for a handful of taps and drill bits. It just bugs me that i need to spend money on a machine i want to replace sooner rather than later.
[ + ] lord_nougat
[ - ] lord_nougat 8 points 1.2 yearsFeb 19, 2023 21:00:55 ago (+8/-0)
[ + ] PeckerwoodPerry
[ - ] PeckerwoodPerry 4 points 1.2 yearsFeb 19, 2023 21:18:52 ago (+4/-0)
[ + ] Prairie
[ - ] Prairie 3 points 1.2 yearsFeb 19, 2023 23:58:38 ago (+3/-0)
[ + ] germ22
[ - ] germ22 [op] 3 points 1.2 yearsFeb 20, 2023 10:07:48 ago (+3/-0)
[ + ] Prairie
[ - ] Prairie 1 point 1.2 yearsFeb 20, 2023 18:03:52 ago (+1/-0)
[ + ] lord_nougat
[ - ] lord_nougat 2 points 1.2 yearsFeb 19, 2023 22:20:55 ago (+2/-0)
[ + ] Outlaw_Aryan
[ - ] Outlaw_Aryan 1 point 1.2 yearsFeb 19, 2023 23:59:20 ago (+1/-0)
[ + ] ReincarnatedGoat
[ - ] ReincarnatedGoat 3 points 1.2 yearsFeb 20, 2023 02:51:13 ago (+3/-0)*
The armature prolly just burned up a bit. Its windings are made of magnetic wire. you might be able to fix it with some shelack.
You might get lucky, if you pull the armature out. If it looks "not too bad" you can blow it off with air until its clean. maybe soap n water if it's real dirty ( gotta make sure it dries fully before next step).
after its clean, just warm it up, just a bit in a oven. just warm it up a bit, like warming up a pair of good leather boots before snow sealing them with bee's wax er someshit, but with this you need to pull it out of the oven (with proper gloves) and paint the armature "copper windings" with shellack. yes good ole shellack from the hardware store. shellack is crushed bugs and it can be thinned out with denatured alcohol. sometimes if the shellack is too thick you gotta thin it out a bit. maybe even filter it if its old n nasty.
i have personally done this when i burned up a worm-drive circular saw. this crazy old timer told me to give it a shot. it werked like a charm.
At the start, the broken saw would just make a loud growling noise, with no spin. The blade would not rotate, when the on button was pressed. just a loud WWWHHHHAAAAHHH!!!!WWWWWHHHHAAAAHHH!!!! totally busted.
after two separate coats it was working fine for me, cutting like a champ.
ok heres how the coats go. first coat goes on like i said earlier, immediately after the warming the armature up, then after it cools, coat it one more time, for good measure. let it dry. once it's dry. install the armature back in the saw and it's should be good to go.
one more thing; i never coated the housing coils. i just coated the armature windings.
oh and dont get and shellac on the commutator. tape it off er somthin.
good luck. be careful. make sure the motor is unplugged. have fun, be safe.
live long and prosper.
nanu nanu shazbat
legal disclaimer: i am not giving you any advice, just telling you what i did. research it for your self if you do not feel comfortable doing anything.
ps. an armature is also called a rotor winding. and the outer part that doesn't spin is called the stator winding.
i do NOT remember coating the stator winding. i only coated the Rotor winding because the rotor has the harder time dissipating heat. the stator runs cooler as it is larger and cools easier from the aluminum casing acting as a heat sink. the inner rotors are what usually burn up, and short out first.
[ + ] germ22
[ - ] germ22 [op] 1 point 1.2 yearsFeb 20, 2023 10:17:06 ago (+1/-0)
[ + ] bonghits4jeebus
[ - ] bonghits4jeebus 3 points 1.2 yearsFeb 20, 2023 01:54:37 ago (+3/-0)
[ + ] Peleg
[ - ] Peleg 0 points 1.2 yearsFeb 20, 2023 12:27:49 ago (+0/-0)
That shit won't work in his lathe.
[ + ] Breeder
[ - ] Breeder 3 points 1.2 yearsFeb 19, 2023 23:22:26 ago (+3/-0)
[ + ] germ22
[ - ] germ22 [op] 3 points 1.2 yearsFeb 20, 2023 00:00:40 ago (+3/-0)
[ + ] Rotteuxx
[ - ] Rotteuxx 3 points 1.2 yearsFeb 20, 2023 08:15:07 ago (+3/-0)
[ + ] PostWallHelena
[ - ] PostWallHelena 3 points 1.2 yearsFeb 19, 2023 22:52:07 ago (+3/-0)
[ + ] yesiknow
[ - ] yesiknow 2 points 1.2 yearsFeb 20, 2023 01:22:13 ago (+2/-0)
[ + ] HeyJames
[ - ] HeyJames 0 points 1.2 yearsFeb 19, 2023 21:18:36 ago (+0/-0)