Many years ago I had the experience of riding a wave roughly this size, perhaps a bit smaller.
While I was positioned at the base, the lip of the wave set down in front of me and I found myself "in the tube".
All of a sudden, the light dimmed as the sun shone through the water overhead and the clamor of the rushing wave was replaced by a serene, nearly utter silence.
I glanced to the left and could see the sky out of the end of the tunnel of water, about 60 feet from where I was positioned.
This was the first time I had ever experienced this sort of thing. As such, I found the scene to be somewhat disorienting. While I was taking it all in, I lost focus on maintaining my position and was quickly drawn up from the base of the wave to the crest, where I was unceremoniously deposited where the lip of the wave met the surface of the ocean and then drawn under. At this point I entered what could be described as a "spin cycle" underneath the wave.
Eventually, it passed and I was able to paddle to shore.
I'm sure that, for some, this sort of thing is a common experience and where I come from the waves don't usually get that big; not when a sane person would be out riding anyway.
After all these years, i can still put myself back into that moment of brief moment of wonderment and serenity, right before I met disaster.
Never saw one and I remember one day being out on the water and not being able to shake this eerie sensation that I was being watched, as in "evaluated as potential prey".
After a short while, I decided to call it a day since I wasn't having any fun.
This particular beach was about a mile from a seal rookery where a large population had congregated to give birth to and rear their pups.
Something like the next day or the day after, I ran into a friend whose husband was a local fisherman. She knew I frequented that beach and warned me that her husband had spotted a 17-footer not far from there.
After that I took a break for a few weeks.
Wasn't long after that some dude got half his face bitten off at the next beach over.
I decided to hang up the fins then and there.
As it was, I was bound for the big city to make my fortune within a few months anyway. The way things turned out, though I took up diving years later, I never got back into surfing again.
Looking back, I was *super lucky to be tossed up and over when I did, before the wave got further up the shore. That particular beach had huge* rocks on the bottom that, while worn flat from the constant erosion, would have been terrible to have been smashed down upon.
[ - ] zr855 1 point 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 16:28:16 ago (+1/-0)*
Reminds me of the time we all used to live in a sea of kikes. Kikes below us, kikes beside us and kikes beneath us.
We all donned our white cloth robes and torches and waded out saddle deep with our horses.
You could see the froth on the kikes lips seething with hatred for whitey. We didn't let it bother us.
We waited until the kikes grew tired from 2 minutes of standing and we slung pennies on the ground.
As all the kikes vigorously rubbed their hands together and dove to the earth with glee, we unsheathed our swastika bolas and unleashed them upon the anklets of all the kikes. The kikes were too busy penching pennies to notice they had been tied. https://youtu.be/vlU-bt5WGmc?t=1022
Attaching them all to our horses and hauling them away to Elon Musk's Free Speech Starship, we waved by to them as they rocketed off to planet Israel 6 million light years away.
Everyone moved to their own countries and we all lived in peace. To this day there have been zero conflicts and we all got through the tunnel of darkness to the light at the other side. Jew you remember?
The tube only got 2 rides in one. West coast on vacation. Wiped out more times than I can count it was worth the beating to catch those 2 . It is magic
[ + ] CRKT_M16Z
[ - ] CRKT_M16Z 15 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 09:46:46 ago (+15/-0)
[ + ] Boyakasha
[ - ] Boyakasha 5 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 15:12:26 ago (+5/-0)
Hoped I was able to help you find the right balance again.
[ + ] CRKT_M16Z
[ - ] CRKT_M16Z 3 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 17:13:48 ago (+3/-0)
[ + ] Boardallday3
[ - ] Boardallday3 1 point 3.0 yearsMay 5, 2022 15:45:28 ago (+1/-0)
[ + ] CRKT_M16Z
[ - ] CRKT_M16Z 0 points 3.0 yearsMay 6, 2022 00:00:14 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] Fascinus
[ - ] Fascinus 12 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 11:18:17 ago (+12/-0)
While I was positioned at the base, the lip of the wave set down in front of me and I found myself "in the tube".
All of a sudden, the light dimmed as the sun shone through the water overhead and the clamor of the rushing wave was replaced by a serene, nearly utter silence.
I glanced to the left and could see the sky out of the end of the tunnel of water, about 60 feet from where I was positioned.
This was the first time I had ever experienced this sort of thing. As such, I found the scene to be somewhat disorienting. While I was taking it all in, I lost focus on maintaining my position and was quickly drawn up from the base of the wave to the crest, where I was unceremoniously deposited where the lip of the wave met the surface of the ocean and then drawn under. At this point I entered what could be described as a "spin cycle" underneath the wave.
Eventually, it passed and I was able to paddle to shore.
I'm sure that, for some, this sort of thing is a common experience and where I come from the waves don't usually get that big; not when a sane person would be out riding anyway.
After all these years, i can still put myself back into that moment of brief moment of wonderment and serenity, right before I met disaster.
Good times :)
[ + ] Deleted
[ - ] deleted 5 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 14:53:22 ago (+5/-0)
[ + ] Ragnar
[ - ] Ragnar 4 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 16:30:58 ago (+4/-0)
Very cool story though, gave me the chills for a second
[ + ] Fascinus
[ - ] Fascinus 3 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 15:18:03 ago (+3/-0)
Thanks for sharing :)
Ahhh... sharks.
Never saw one and I remember one day being out on the water and not being able to shake this eerie sensation that I was being watched, as in "evaluated as potential prey".
After a short while, I decided to call it a day since I wasn't having any fun.
This particular beach was about a mile from a seal rookery where a large population had congregated to give birth to and rear their pups.
Something like the next day or the day after, I ran into a friend whose husband was a local fisherman. She knew I frequented that beach and warned me that her husband had spotted a 17-footer not far from there.
After that I took a break for a few weeks.
Wasn't long after that some dude got half his face bitten off at the next beach over.
I decided to hang up the fins then and there.
As it was, I was bound for the big city to make my fortune within a few months anyway. The way things turned out, though I took up diving years later, I never got back into surfing again.
[ + ] Clubberlang
[ - ] Clubberlang -1 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 20:37:21 ago (+0/-1)
[ + ] FalseRealityCheck
[ - ] FalseRealityCheck 3 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 12:03:55 ago (+3/-0)
[ + ] Ragnar
[ - ] Ragnar 3 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 16:27:58 ago (+3/-0)
[ + ] Optional_Reading
[ - ] Optional_Reading 2 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 15:11:00 ago (+2/-0)
[ + ] Fascinus
[ - ] Fascinus 3 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 15:21:10 ago (+3/-0)
Looking back, I was *super lucky to be tossed up and over when I did, before the wave got further up the shore. That particular beach had huge* rocks on the bottom that, while worn flat from the constant erosion, would have been terrible to have been smashed down upon.
[ + ] dulcima
[ - ] dulcima [op] 2 points 3.0 yearsMay 5, 2022 03:57:44 ago (+2/-0)
[ + ] zr855
[ - ] zr855 1 point 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 16:28:16 ago (+1/-0)*
We all donned our white cloth robes and torches and waded out saddle deep with our horses.
You could see the froth on the kikes lips seething with hatred for whitey. We didn't let it bother us.
We waited until the kikes grew tired from 2 minutes of standing and we slung pennies on the ground.
As all the kikes vigorously rubbed their hands together and dove to the earth with glee, we unsheathed our swastika bolas and unleashed them upon the anklets of all the kikes. The kikes were too busy penching pennies to notice they had been tied. https://youtu.be/vlU-bt5WGmc?t=1022
Attaching them all to our horses and hauling them away to Elon Musk's Free Speech Starship, we waved by to them as they rocketed off to planet Israel 6 million light years away.
Everyone moved to their own countries and we all lived in peace. To this day there have been zero conflicts and we all got through the tunnel of darkness to the light at the other side. Jew you remember?
[ + ] Psychicrussiaspy
[ - ] Psychicrussiaspy 1 point 3.0 yearsMay 5, 2022 12:13:28 ago (+1/-0)
[ + ] Boardallday3
[ - ] Boardallday3 0 points 3.0 yearsMay 5, 2022 15:45:55 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] Ragnar
[ - ] Ragnar 4 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 16:26:27 ago (+4/-0)
[ + ] VicariousJambi
[ - ] VicariousJambi 4 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 14:50:09 ago (+4/-0)
[ + ] TheViciousMrPim
[ - ] TheViciousMrPim 5 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 06:39:08 ago (+5/-0)
[ + ] FalseRealityCheck
[ - ] FalseRealityCheck 4 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 12:01:56 ago (+4/-0)
[ + ] Blackpowerwhitepowder
[ - ] Blackpowerwhitepowder 3 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 14:32:03 ago (+3/-0)
[ + ] taoV
[ - ] taoV 3 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 14:30:28 ago (+3/-0)
[ + ] kammmmak
[ - ] kammmmak 3 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 13:50:29 ago (+3/-0)
[ + ] Prairie
[ - ] Prairie 2 points 3.0 yearsMay 4, 2022 10:50:25 ago (+2/-0)
[ + ] Boardallday3
[ - ] Boardallday3 0 points 3.0 yearsMay 5, 2022 15:45:04 ago (+0/-0)
[ + ] 2017Fallout
[ - ] 2017Fallout 0 points 3.0 yearsMay 5, 2022 04:11:10 ago (+0/-0)